The Northeast Pillar Of Tengkangpoche

It's one of the hardest routes on a north face that's not lacking in them: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed, ice and rock, sometimes dubious, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repeats that have made it a legend: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003. For the past ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been setting off on this route in the fall, or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped up with Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film about what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.

On 9 August 2018, Slovenian climbers Luka Stražar and Aleš Česen, along with British climber Tom Livingstone, reached the summit of Latok I (7,145 m) in the Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan. They climbed three-quarters of the way up the coveted "impossible ridge" before deviating from it. The North Ridge of Latok has been/is recognized as one of the last great unclimbed lines in high-altitude mountaineering. This is the second successful ascent of the summit and the first ascent from the north face.